Holland-Amerika Line

Rotterdam has the largest port in Europe, stretching from the city @30 miles inland to the English Channel (google image this, it's astounding). Today, cruise ships leave from the same pier that Europeans left from starting four hundred years ago, heading to America because of poverty and/or religious persecution. Mathias Nafzger (Lesley's great x 7 grandfather on her mom's side) left for these reasons as well, a Swiss Mennonite from the German states of Wirtembug and Palatinate. Mathias sailed with his two brothers to Philadelphia on September 15, 1749 on the Phoenix, a sailing bark (think revolutionary way-era ships, pre-steam by almost 100 years).

The pier


















Over a hundred years later (in 1873), ships began sailing regularly to the States from Rotterdam. This Holland-Amerika line became the now famous cruise ship company. Their old terminal has been converted into a beautiful old hotel called Hotel New York, in the Nooder Island neighborhood that is currently being revitalized (with Calatrava-inspired bridge et al.).
























































































The Hotel New York recommended the Maritime Museum for info on people sailing before the Holland-Amerika line was started. Their research library held a few treasures...









The museum librarian connected us with this compilation of passenger lists, 30,000 names.









Passenger list of Mathias' boat












A painting of a ship from c. 1749 in Rotterdam, showing the cathedral that still stands in the background.












This being only our second stop on our family heritage tour, we already feel so rewarded for embarking on this journey.

Hoek von Holland and Rotterdam arrival

Arrived in Hoek van Holland Wednesday morning, greeted by mixed industry (manufacturing, shipping, power, and wind turbine)










and a beautiful little Dutch port town on a blustery day


















Twee koffie, alstublieft (nee slagroom)









We headed to Rotterdam because 350+ years ago, Lesley's great great great great great great great grandfather, Mathias Nafzger, left here for Philadelphia. Already we are finding that there is something incredibly invigorating about traveling with a mission---we are letting our family guide the way, with few expectations, leading to happy surprises all along the way. Admittedly, we didn't plan our itinerary before we left the States (except the big loop) and the making-it-up-as-you-go has been an excellent way to explore a place.

Joe loves boats

Large sailing barge









An eighty foot boat with a twelve foot leeboard!









A twelve foot boat made of steel, riveted!









I've read about it before...it is true...there are amazing similarities between the Dutch and the Chinese (boatwise)

Rotto

Rotterdam is the second city that we can see ourselves living in...(we felt this way about Golders Green too)...

Crazy cool art and architecture

Zalm sandwich and kroketten (think fried gravy ball, spread on toast)

Stainless steel skate park, an award winning public space in the center of town









Lesley's pointing at the slide rail installed on park benches









Rotto is the same size as Seattle (@600,000), and has a tram, metro, buses, bike paths, and a well-signed walking rotterdam path that takes you all over without having to think about it. People are out and about all day and night. It's a diverse new city, almost entirely rebuilt after WWII and with over half the population from outside the Netherlands.



























Our home in Rotterdam, the Room hostel

Golders Green

Day 1: Landed at Heathrow Sunday afternoon, took the tube ("chube") to Golders Green, an old Jewish neighborhood in northern London where Lesley's Bubby Eva is from.









First meal: Schwarma and chips at Solly's take-away. They use more cinnamon and cumin in their shwarma here and let you select from over 20 condiments and salads to put IN your sandwich, i.e. taboulleh, picked carrots, cabbage, chili sauce, hummus, baba ganoush...need we say more. (Note: Joe is no longer a vegetarian, Lesley is on her cultural "travel diet")









Our first best practice in transportation: Well lit crosswalks









Day 2: Picked up a salt beef (corned beef) sandwich and two kinds of pickles at Bloom's to take into London.









Picnicked at the Tate Modern.










On "The London Eye"


















Look who joined us in London?









Tubey's here too?









Our first favorite pub, oxtail stew with mashers and very rare roast beef. Had a delicious Czech beer, began with an L, knocked our socks off.









Day 3: Happy New Year! Joe's first Rosh Hashanah at the West London Synagogue, the Rabbi was from Texas and rocked the mini shofar. It was a contemporary service, with references to Paul Newman's legacy and the market crash. It is a strange time to be traveling given the current economic situation, and it lends a whole new layer to our research into our families emigration stories.












Moroccan stews at Camden Market to warm us up on a rainy day and fuel us for buying coats!












Note: Upholstered ceiling












Took the afternoon train to Harwich for the boat to Holland....