Bamberg

We crossed the border from the Czech Republic into Germany in our peppy Skoda. The last leg of our trip includes Bohemia, Czech Republic, Hessen, Germany, and Alsace-Lorraine. Since we didn't know any exact towns where are families were from in these regions (besides Pisek), we decided to rent a car for ten days to better get a feel for these places and have the freedom and flexibility to follow our noses, or our stomachs as it may be. The Czech Republic behind us, we have one week with the vehicle before we return the car in Zurich and hop an alp train to Florence (sigh).

A defunct border crossing, thanks to the Schengen agreement opening borders of some European countries. Makes things easy but reduces the number of passport stamps in different languages.









Beautiful Bavaria (southeast of Hessen). While it might sound cliche, the orderliness of the German countryside made an immediate impression.




































So Bavarian.









Autobahn! We maxed out at 160km.


















We had originally planned on sleeping somewhere in Hessen, but didn't want to continue driving in the dark and miss the scenery. The angels were with us once again when we decided to spent the night in Bamberg. Bamberg recently became a UNESCO site. It is totally restored and features a range of architectural styles.

After dinner drinks at a cute little cafe that looked like it could be in Seattle. The local beer is rauchbier, a smoked beer that tastes a bit like bacon.









Outside the cafe












The main Bamberg Cathedral. Bamberg is organized into three areas--the church district, the garden district, and an island in the center of old town.












Our pensione was located above a local brewery, the Maisel Bamberger Weissbier Haus. This is the courtyard behind the bar which in summer is a beer garden. We like how comfortable these places are, performing the function of a tavern, an inn, a social club, a restaurant, a card room.












The brewery. We could be regulars here.









A farmer's market in the center of town featuring local produce.












An awesome building en route to the old town island.












Inside the grand courtyard of the old palace.
























Unique timber frame, click to enlarge.









The church ceiling in Michaelsberg monastery, an old, elegant complex on one of Bamberg's hills.












Along the river.


















Lunch at the famous old Schlenkerla tavern in the center of the old town island. The waiter was very helpful, pointing to parts of his body to explain which cuts of pork were on their menu. Joe had one of their specialties, the pork hax (ankle): the preparation, which has its equivalent in the Czech Republic, is to sear the joint, then braise, then dry bake until tender, tender, tender. You could shake the meat off the bone, it was so juicy and tender. In the Czech Republic, pork ankle traditionally comes with pickled vegetables. Here, it came with a trio of pickled salads--beets, potato salad, and cabbage salad. Phenomenal. Les had another house specialty, a roasted onion stuffed with fatty ground pork, served with mashed potatoes and gravy. Joe's was surprisingly light compared to Les' meal.












The tavern, where we bought some smoky beer to enjoy throughout our travels.












After a meal like that, one needs apple kuchen, cafe, and grappa. Overlooking the old town hall of course. We are delighted that it is still nice enough to sit outside.









The view from our digestivo.
























What fun to randomly stop at a place in the night and have it be Bamberg. Life is gut. Sehr gut.

Kvilda

Kvilda is a wee little town in the Sumava (shoo-mava) National Forest, a swath of green along the Czech/German border. We went there to round out our Bohemian exploration--we'd been in a hip city, a university town and a castle town, and wanted to spend some time in a rural area. Fiona, our election night friend, also recommended it. And, we love the forest.

The approach to the Sumava. Winding country roads through rolling hills.









We passed many quaint little villages like this one.


















We saw this large solar array outside a small village. On some homes, you'll see solar panels on the roof, and smoke coming out of the chimney. Most homes still use wood for their heating.









We arrived in Kvilda just before dusk. It is a small launching point for forest trails, biking, and skiing. There is one main road, maybe four pensiones, a few apartment buildings for seasonal rental. Pretty much everything was closed except for the Sumava Inn, a lodge-style hotel with lots of wood and fireplaces. It was owned by a young couple from Prague who grew up in the area.

In their restaurant, Joe had a meal of game. Goose liver dumpling soup, and a venison steak with bilberry sauce and dilly potatoes. Check out the color of his Magnum beer.









Our inn, and our zippy car (a Czech make, Skoda).












The next day we hiked up to the mouth of the Vitava River, which we'd seen in Prague and Cesky Krumlov.









And there it is! The mighty Vitava starts as a trickle.












The hike was along a forest road and began and ended in cow and horse pasture. There's Kvilda in the distance.









Kvilda was a peaceful place to end our time in the Czech Republic (we were both a little sad about this chapter coming to a close). Full of fresh air and legs stretched, we hopped in the car for our next adventure: the region of Hessen, and the autobahn.