This is the Topόr coat of arms. Topόr means axe in Polish. We find ourselves in Sandomierz because we found the surname Krzywozycki (pronounced Krizsh-ye-vo-zye-ski in Poland) on a list of several hundred noble (szlachta) families that were part of this coat of arms in the 15th century. These families were from Southeastern Poland, in and around Krakow, Lublin and Sandomierz. Their battle cry is "Szarza!"
We knew there were parts of this trip where we would have little information to go on. Perhaps it is in these places that we are most sensitive to subtle connections. Something familiar in a foreign place can almost immediately instill a sense of belonging. Sometimes its food, sometimes its customs, sometimes its the people. Joe's mother called this "chasing ghosts."
As luck (or fate?) would have it, Sandomierz has a beautiful Old Town perched high on a hill above the Vistula and San rivers. The photo of the map below shows the layout of the little town--you can walk from one end to the other in 10 minutes. Its really quite charming.
This point in our trip also represented the halfway point of our journey, can you believe it? To mark the occasion, and because we had been in transit for 36 hours, and because there was only one other hotel, we treated ourselves to the Hotel Bastowy. And massages and sauna.
Our first Polish meal, a great introduction to pork, potatoes, and cabbage (foreshadowing...this will be a theme). Joe had grilled pork neck with potatoes and three common salads--shredded cabbage, beets, and carrots, each with its own simple dressing. He started with barszcz (another theme), a clear, simple, beet beef broth with tiny potato pirogies. Lesley had pirogies (she has a thing for dumplings) stuffed with potatoes and farmer's cheese. You need to wash these meals down with Polish lager, which we did.
A video in Sandomierz's town square.
This gentleman looks a lot like Joe's grandfather, Anthony Krzywozycki.
A view of Sandomierz from atop one of the town gates.
Cool public art piece.
Naleśniki (crepes) with a blob of horseradish sour cream, enjoyed at a cozy cafe.
Holy buttresses!
More beautiful iron work.
We went for a walk early one morning and caught this great morning light.
After a few restful days in Sandomierz we took the bus southwest to Krakow. En route, we passed many stands selling these large bouquets and colored glass lanterns. These are sold for All Saints Day and All Souls Day, major holidays throughout mostly Catholic Poland. On these days, people and families visit the cemeteries to honor their loved ones.
