Prague

Taking the overnight train from Krakow to Prague. We're quite at home in our little cabin. We are visiting Bohemia, a region of Western Czech Republic, because this is where Joe's paternal great grandparents were from. 1910 and 1920 Michigan Census Records indicate that Joseph and Agnes Safranec came to the States c. 1906, settling first in Ohio than moving to Michigan. They had eight children, the seventh of which was Joe's grandmother Mary who continues to live in Michigan. Our first stop is Prague, then we head south to explore the region by car.

Another lovely train compartment. We had read the Krakow to Prague route was notorious for theft, and took this more seriously when our train attendant gave us an extra lock for our cabin door. It all seemed a bit much, given there was no one on the train, we slept through the night without Joe having to practice his kung fu moves.
























Prague's famous astrological clock.












which puts on a performance every hour.


St Vitus, the cathedral inside Prague's castle's complex. We both agree that this is one of the prettiest cathedrals we've ever seen. We were first in Prague as high schoolers as part of a trip with our singing group and chamber orchestra. Upon entering the inner castle walls, seeing the church rise up, we returned to our youth, with memories and visions of this beautiful city through two 17-year old New Englanders' eyes.










The cathedral was started 1000 years ago. Half of the nave was built in the 14th century, the other half built in the 18th century, though they are similar you can see the style change when standing in the middle.












Beautiful stained glass windows line the nave, each using different techniques. Remember to click to enlarge.












Tomb of John Nepomuk. Joe overheard a tour guide saying there are two tons of silver statuary used in the tomb.












Outside the church are lovely bronze gates with small scenes depicting seasonal activities for each month of the year. Little bronze plaques of Zodiac symbols are under each scene.












We especially liked this one.


















Another church inside the castle complex.












Cool plaster scrafitto.












No lines for this voting!





















The pub where we watched the election unfold.









6:01 am. President-elect Obama flashed across the tv screen.












We watched the last few hours of election coverage with Fiona and her colleague (Joe's doppelganger) from the Prague Post, an English-language Prague newspaper and the ones who kept the pub open all night. It was fun--while passing the wee hours, we learned about Czech politics and Prague's greenspaces.





















A morning paper printed the night of the election forecasted the results. The headline reads "Obama promises revolution, McCain hopes for a miracle."









Walked home in the dreamy, foggy dawn, feeling relieved and proud.









Lesley dressed up the next day in celebration. This is the Mala Strana, and old neighborhood across the Vitava River from the main Prague square.












A celebratory lunch. Roast duck and Prague's famous bread dumplings (spongy to soak up the gravy), and smoked ham and potato pancakes. Both with cabbage, washed down with pivo.












Doesn't Les look lovely?












For a digestivo, we climbed up to the castle for a cafe.


The Czech Republic's occupation left a definite opinion about militarism.









They have sausage in the Czech Republic? Lesley's favorite part about these stands are they are filled with people of all ages, shapes and sizes, particularly after work or for a quick dinner.









Another anti-war art piece.









The next day we took another funicular (fourth one!) up to the hill above the Mala Strana and behind the castle. The fog made for a soft landscape, orchards and vineyards in the foreground, castle buildings, churches, and old Prague behind.









One of our favorite meals was at Klášterní pivovar Strahov (Strahov Monastery Brewery). It dates back to the 17th century and brews absolutely delicious St. Norbert's beer (another one of our favorites)--we enjoyed a smooth, molassessy dark, a clean, round amber, and a seasonal crisp hefeweizen to finish the meal. What did we eat? A plate of grilled meaty spareribs with three dipping sauces: sticky sweet smoky plum, pungent chili mae ploy-esque, and garlicky herby thick buttermilky. The sauces were a surprise hit, as were the giant plate of ribs. We also had a salad and soup and this great pretzel bread.










While crossing back over the river, we passed the Rudolfinum Opera House. We decided to see the symphony that night, and enjoyed the fun Roman Carnival, the obscure Frescoes of Piero della Francesca, and swashbuckling Mahler's Symphony No. 1 in D major. The conductor, Manfred Honeck, was passionate and gracious, and we enjoyed ourselves tremendously.












Prague is a fairytale city.









We start exploring the Czech Republic by car tomorrow....